Kirby Mountain Sporting Dogs
Bird Dogs Need Birds
Who wouldn’t want to hunt or own a well trained /experienced
bird dog (pointer, flushing dog or retriever)? With short seasons,
inconstant weather, sporadic bird populations, work and family commitments, the
possibility or probability of training our dogs on wild birds exclusively is
next to impossible. The alternative is both effective and possible: pen raised
birds. Homing or barn pigeons and bob white quail are tremendous tools in the
making of a great bird dog.
Before I get to the fun stuff of acquiring and using our birds,
let’s talk about the legal end of it. In order to raise and/or keep birds you
need 3 different permits form the state of Vermont:
1) an importation
permit, $50.00/year,
2) a breeder license,
$50.00/year ($10.00/year to renew), and
3) a permit to train and condition hunting dogs, no
charge. These permits are obtainable from the Vermont Fish and Wildlife
Agency in Waterbury, Vermont. The permits are neither too long nor too
difficult to fill out.
Over the years of dog training I have learned a great deal about
trapping, hatching out, and raising birds. Some of these experiences have
been more successful than others. I remember the days when I would drive
to the Ide Company in St. Johnsbury
at 7:00 am to collect my catch of pigeons from the previous day and to set
out water and food for any new comers. The entire ordeal, including
the forty-minute ride each day, often caused me to be late for my other
responsibilities but I needed these birds! Since my days of trapping wild
pigeons on roofs, we have raised homing pigeons, have incubated quail, chukar, and pheasant eggs, and have raised already hatched
chicks. At one point we have even had ducklings in our daughter’s bedroom
(Wendy wasn’t too crazy about this episode!). We have bought mature birds, as
well as too old to recall birds. I guess you could say that we have run
the gamut with game birds. All of this is not because we are lacking for
things to do but only for one end; to have a bird to train the dogs on.
Many people who start in this venture want to do it all from
incubating the eggs to raising the chicks into adult birds. This process
is not unlike buying a chainsaw, a wood lot, a pickup truck in order to collect
your own fire wood to burn in your wood stove in order to heat your house; all
it takes is plenty of money, time, and hard work. We have tried many
things, including having birds from start to finish, but today we do it like
having the oil truck back up to the house. We buy ready to use birds or at
the very least started birds. We have found that unless you have the
perfect set up and a knowledgeable person to guide you, raising your own birds
does not work. Over the years we have researched to find the healthiest and
most useful birds available and we buy them. Doing this allows us to focus
on our original project and what we do best, breeding and training exceptional
sporting dogs.
Having your own supply of birds is the easiest way to train
pointing and flushing dogs year round. The best birds to use are common
barn pigeons, homing pigeons, bobwhite quail and chukar
partridge. Pheasants are expensive, cannibalistic, and take a very large space
to house them. It is important to get the right bird and to use it in the
correct application or you can do much more damage than having no birds at all.
In our training programs, different birds are used for different
developmental stages and different types of dogs. You want to be sure that once
you have your birds that you use them appropriately.
The beauty of the game birds is that they will recall.
When you let some go and keep some in a Johnny house, a recall pen that looks like an ice shanty, the birds
inside the pen will call (whistle) to the birds outside of the pen and draw
them back. We use a cone funnel run into the house like a minnow trap so
that the birds can get back in but not out. Recalling birds is a great way
to use them over and over again. A person could do very well with 20 quail
and train a couple of dogs all summer and into fall. However, birds don’t recall
forever. We use birds between 14 weeks and 9 months old. Before this
age they don’t fly well, and after that they don’t recall well. Another
thing is that pen raised birds don’t fly well if they are wet so you shouldn’t
use them on rainy days.
Buying quail can be a challenge. We have had the most
success with Sand Prairie Quail Farm, (319) 652-5407. You can buy eggs and
chicks, or what we recommend, 6 week old started birds for around $2.65 each
including shipping to your post office. Before you get your birds make
sure that you are set up with the correct information on care and suitable
equipment. After your birds arrive be sure that you have plenty of water,
food (game bird grower), and grit (sand like material) which are all available
at your local feed store. Once your birds are in your pen they should stay
there for about 6 weeks before they are ready to be used. Remember, the
less human contact with the birds, the better.
A common size Johnny house, quail pen is 4’ wide x 4’
long x 6’ high. You want the birds in the pen to be able to stretch their
wings. About 4 feet up we have a 6 inch walk way so the birds can fly up
and hop down. This will keep them in condition in between training
sessions. Of course you can make a flight pen like we have for the
pheasants. This pen is made of chicken wire and top netting upwards of 50’
x 50’, but we are raising hundreds of birds for training not just a few like
you would need. Raising birds is no easy task. It is time consuming
and labor and money intensive. It is also at the whim of nature so anything can
eliminate your bird population from predators and weather to sickness and
disease. I keep quail because I need them to train the dogs so I will not sell
you a few birds. Call the number above or a source you know of and be
ready for training your dog. Having your own supply of birds is the easiest way to train pointing
and flushing dogs year round.
If you need training supplies in addition to your birds, the
following numbers may help you: LION COUNTRY SUPPLY (800) 662-5202 or DOBBS
TRAINING CENTER (888) 326-5527. These places have the equipment from quail
house supplies to manual and remote traps to fly your birds.
The best place to put your quail house is in a grown up pasture
next to the woods. You don’t want to work your dog in a mowed hay field or
in a thick soft wood area. One of the biggest mistakes people make is that they
don’t let the birds sit long enough before they bring out the dog. The birds
should sit for 30-60 minutes in order for them to build a scent
cone. Another thing that makes a big difference in how the dog works on
birds is the time of day. Mornings and evenings are the best time and noon
to 3:00 P.M. is the worst. Time of day has a great impact on scenting
conditions which has an impact on dog training.
Remember when using birds to keep your sessions short, 15 to 30
minutes each. Five to six times a week with short sessions is much better than
three hours on Saturday morning. Your dog and the birds can’t take one
long session a week. If you get your birds in June and start using them by July
15, you’ll have two months of dog work on the recalled birds and them I
recommend shooting the birds over the dog in September just before the wild
bird season starts.
Although I mentioned quail first, my bird of choice is the
homing pigeon. They are strong, grow fast, breed continually, and recall well!
The difference between the game bird and the pigeon is that the game bird
recalls to the flock and the pigeon recalls to its home. The same size
house will hold a dozen pigeons, they are hardier and you could train all year
with a dozen birds. The homing pigeon will never stop recalling. You
can also trap barn pigeons under bridges but these will not recall. Again,
I raise these birds because I need them, I do not have extra to sell.
You can use the same application for both pigeons and quail with
the dogs, but again a mistake can set you back weeks. Some people are
excited and want to start their 3 month old dogs on birds. I don’t start
my own dogs until around 6 months of age, and I start them on homing pigeons.
Some trainers start with quail as early as 3-4 months and let the dog do what
we call bump and run. This practice is to get the young dog hunting for the
birds and is great for a flushing dog as it will push the bird up and it is an
exciting and confidence building experience for the pup. The problem with
this activity is that it adds a step to training with a pointing dog. The
pointing dog will search for the game, which is great, but then the bump (flash
point) and run (the chase) creates a problem. Everybody who brings me a
pointing dog wants it to stay on point until he comes into gun range and is
able to flush the bird. If a pointing dog is encouraged to flush the bird then
it must be trained to stay on point at a certain age. You can see how this
type of early bird activity can add much time to the training of a competent
pointing dog.
I start with 6 month old pups using the homing pigeons in the
remote control bird launchers. The most important things to remember are:
1) if you don’t
have a remote launcher, you will need a helper to flush the bird and
2) always have
the pup on a twenty foot check cord.
Hopefully this will not be your pup’s first time on the check
cord since you should have practiced your quartering in an open field before
you introduce the dog to birds. After the dog is used to having a collar on and
has been check corded in quartering drills many times it’s time to work the pup
on the pigeon in the trap (or the bird can be spun and put to sleep on the
ground). You need to help the pup find the bird and work him to it, making
sure the dog NEVER grabs the trap or the bird. When the pup stops or flash
points or the flushing dog gets excited (birdy),
you activate the remote (or pull the release cord) and the bird springs from
the trap. Holding the dog in a body lock will prohibit him from chasing
the pigeon that is flying away. You should practice this 5 or 6 times
before introducing the dog to the blank pistol. As you continue with these
techniques and practices you are well on your way to training your dog on live
birds and preparing your pup for a season of wild birds.
There are a few points to remember about training your dog on
pen raised birds:
1) these techniques do not work only on pups (though it is
better for the dog to be exposed to birds early), you can work your older dog
on birds to encourage birdiness and to practice
hunting techniques, and
2) no formal yard work or training on planted birds can replace
the experience of running your dog in the woods and exposing it to the sounds,
smells, sights, and feel of the cover.
Whether you buy expensive birds and training equipment, or you
make do with catching barn pigeons and bird harnesses, what YOU do with your
pup each and every day will make the difference in the training process.
In closing, you didn’t get to be a great deer hunter, turkey
hunter, or fly fisherman without countless hours of practice. What makes you
think that your dog (even though it is your best friend) will be a great
hunting dog going out just a few times a year?
Good luck and great hunting,
John Hayes
goldy©2003